Ollantaytambo's Inca terraces, village and green fields viewed from above
Alex.travel

I design journeys to places of power for those who want to travel deeper

Travel deeper to Peru

Three countries live inside one border: a desert coast fed by ocean fog, an Andean spine where Quechua towns still farm Inca terraces, and the cloud forest where the Amazon begins.

Flagship journey

Epic Peru

18–24 days · Inca Trail · Altiplano

Plan an Epic Peru journey

Designer's note

The Peru I want to show you

Peru punishes trips that treat altitude as a formality and rewards the ones that treat it as the itinerary's backbone. Build the ascent as a gradient and the whole country opens up.

Portrait of Alex

Alex

Journey designer

I design private Peru journeys around altitude, season and the people who still farm the terraces.

  1. 01

    Climb in steps, not jumps

    Lima at sea level, Arequipa at 2,300, the canyon at 3,300, the altiplano at 3,800. Each step gives the body time, and each one is worth seeing anyway.

    Lima - Arequipa - Colca - Titicaca
  2. 02

    Sleep low before you go high

    The Sacred Valley is 600 metres below Cusco. Sleeping there first is the single change that most improves how people feel on the high days.

    Valley first - Cusco after
  3. 03

    Book the trail before anything else

    Inca Trail permits are capped and sell out months ahead, and the trail closes every February. That date fixes the rest of the itinerary.

    Permits - February closure

Three ways into Peru

Canyon condors, altiplano lake and the terraces above the valley

Watch condors rise out of the Colca, cross the altiplano to Titicaca's island communities, and walk the terraces the Inca cut above the Urubamba.

Peru is the country travellers most often under-plan. The standard visit lands in Cusco, spends four days on the Machu Picchu circuit, and leaves believing it has seen the country. What it has seen is one valley.

The line that actually explains Peru runs west to east: a desert coast where civilisations grew without rain, an Andean spine where Quechua towns still farm Inca terraces, and the cloud forest where the Amazon begins. Three countries inside one border.

The altitude is what people plan worst. Cusco sits at 3,400 metres, and arriving there directly from sea level before a trek is how trips get ruined. Given three weeks the ascent can be built as a gradient rather than a shock, and the days that look slow on paper are exactly the ones that make the high passes possible.

When to go

Best time to visit Peru

Ollantaytambo's Inca terraces, village and green fields viewed from above
May to September

The Andean dry season

High passes open

Cold, bright mornings above 3,000 metres and reliable trekking weather. This is the only dependable window for the high passes and the Inca Trail, and the reason most of the route is planned around it.

Temp
Near freezing at dawn to about 20 °C by day in the highlands
Crowds
Cusco and Machu Picchu busy
Good places
Cusco · Sacred Valley · Colca Canyon · Lake Titicaca
Evening light over Lima's Pacific coastline and sea cliffs
December to March

Highland rains, open coast

Inca Trail closed in February

Heavy afternoon rain across the highlands makes the high roads unreliable and closes the Inca Trail every February. The desert coast and the Amazon stay workable, so the journey changes shape rather than stopping.

Temp
Mild but wet inland; warm and humid in the Amazon
Crowds
Quietest months inland
Good places
Lima · Arequipa
Read the month-by-month guide

Questions

Peru travel questions

Q01How many days does Peru really need?

Eighteen days is the shortest version that does not rush the altitude. Twenty-four allows the Inca Trail, the Amazon descent, and rest days around both.

Q02When is the Inca Trail closed?

Every February, for maintenance. Permits for the rest of the year are capped and typically sell out several months ahead.

Q03How bad is the altitude?

Cusco is at 3,400 metres and the highest pass on the route is 4,900. Built as a gradient over several days it is manageable for most people; arriving straight from sea level and trekking immediately is not.

Contact

Plan it with me

Every journey is planned individually; there is no fixed departure calendar.

Plan a Peru journey